The Union Square Cafe

review by Paulette Licitra

See the Restaurant, Read the Book

It's almost like a revolution. Or maybe a coup d'etat? The way Danny Meyer and Michael Romano have continuously topped the charts with their Union Square Cafe restaurant, one would think something new in the way of food has been invented. Has it? Probably not (except maybe for their porcini gnocchi). More likely it's the winning combination they've brought under one roof at E. 16th Street in Manhattan. The ingredients seem to be:

Thoughtful, inventive, savory, and beautifully presented food, representative of many regions of Italy mixed with some nouvelle American overtones.
A cozy, warmly lit, tranquil setting, dotted with friendly paintings and prints imaginative renderings of great food.
A sincere and courteous staff who try and succeed at making you feel at home.
And not of their making, but certainly a testament to their appeal, an attractive and varied clientele.

The other night my husband, Peter, and I immersed ourselves into the gracious surroundings of the Union Square Cafe. The menu is thankfully short; even with a handful of temptations it's hard to decide what to order.

We looked to the waiter for help. My tastes buds were arguing over the appetizers.

"The porcini gnocchi with prosciutto and parmigiano cream or the special appetizer of the day: bombolotti al modo miosweet fennel sausage, cognac cream and parmigiano reggiano?"

The waiter gave a little smile, and said secretly, almost sinfully, "You must have the porcini gnocchi. It is internationally known!"

Sold.

My husband, Peter, ventured an entree question.

"The special today of seared ginger-marinated tilefish or the roast chicken with pepper-mustard sauce, creamed spinach & butternut squash?"

The waiter shook his head. "I know chicken is chicken, but this is the best chicken. I would definitely take it over the tilefish."

Done.

During the appetizer course, you could have heard sighs coming from our table. I couldn't believe those gnocchi. Each bite was like sinking your teeth into a warm, sensual oyster tasting like a creamy mushroom. Great. Peter's soup, minestra di ceci (chickpea soup with rosemary, roast tomatoes and olive oil), had the kind of taste you can't stop putting into your mouth. You finish the bowl in surprise, thinking you've just started.

The entrees were satisfying, but not as ecstasy-provoking. Peter's chicken was very tender, but he did mention he preferred Stouffer's frozen spinach souffle over the creamed spinach in his dish. (Note: my husband's favorite restaurants are Greek diners.) I had the seared salmon with onion-pepper marmalade, sweet potato Brussels sprout hash & kale. It tasted like a nicely broiled salmon with a sweet sauce, almost like a tamarind sauce. I enjoyed it, but was wishing for a bit more magic.

The dessert we shared: warm banana tart with honey vanilla ice cream and macadamia nut brittle brought us back to heaven. It had all the great dessert attributes: gushy scrumptious, chewy smooth, flaky crust. The only drawback was the large chunk of macadamia brittle that almost got lodged in my throat. But, what's wrong with a little adventure with one's dessert?

The appetizers run from $7.95 to $9.75. The entrees from $14.95 to $23.95. I highly recommend the house wine. Made especially for the Union Square Cafe, it's a dry Tuscan red, with a rich velvety taste.

Also, it's hard to get a reservation. But since the owners hate to turn anyone away, they happily seat patrons at their beautiful lengthy bar, where you can order from the full menu (and many cheerfully do).